In the eighth edition of the Michelin Guide Singapore, Pangium has been awarded its first Michelin star, marking a significant milestone for the restaurant. In addition, Malcolm Lee’s Peranakan restaurant, Candlenut, has retained its Michelin star, an accolade it has received since 2016. This makes Lee the only chef-owner in Singapore to have won the judge’s attention for not just one restaurant, but two.

Opened just two years ago in the lush Gallop Extension of the Singapore Botanic Gardens, Pangium is an homage to Singapore’s rich culinary evolution, embodying a spirit of exploration and adaptation, showcasing the rich flavours of Straits cuisine.

“We’re not just preserving heritage; we’re celebrating the constant arrival of new influences and adapting them into our cuisine,” says Lee; “This Michelin star, arriving on the eve of our second year anniversary menu, feels very special indeed — testament to the passion and commitment of a brilliant team, including my wife, Jessline, who is always by my side, looking and searching for the next ‘forgotten’ dish, which we strive to adapt to modern palates.”

“Ever since I met his mother, whose home-cooked food I’ve known for many years, I’ve appreciated Lee’s exceptional talent, and desire to explore and champion our regional culinary heritage. That’s why I’ve backed his journey, both at the Pangium premises, and also Candlenut at COMO Dempsey,” says COMO Group’s founder, Christina Ong; “Malcolm’s food is one of the things I most miss whenever I am away from Singapore.”

At a very young age, Lee, a fourth-generation Peranakan, grew up watching his mother cook, creating flavour memories that have stayed with him. His passion for culinary arts was ignited by these early experiences, where he witnessed the meticulous preparation of traditional dishes in the family home. This sparked a desire to delve into the history and heritage behind the flavours he loved.

Lee calls Pangium his “discovery kitchen” – “a place where I can explore lost recipes and bring them back to life,” says Lee; “Sometimes a single dish takes up to six months to perfect.”

Lee’s journey of exploration often involves second-hand cookbooks, some dating back to the 1950s. These books are treasure troves of forgotten recipes that offer a glimpse into the culinary past. When he comes across an intriguing old recipe, Lee doesn’t stop at just reading about it. “You get your references, research the taste, look for someone who is still cooking it the classic way somewhere in Singapore or around the region. I learn from travelling to these places and talking to people, and then work out ways to interpret these dishes in a way that resonates with today’s diners.”

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